Wedge gap help

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By Bret P

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  1. Bret P

    Bret P
    Hawthorn woods, IL

    I recently picked up a new 50 degree vokey at golf galaxy. I also have a 60 degree vokey. My problem is I want to replace my non-vokey 56 degree wedge with a vokey but I would like the gaps in my wedges even. Should I buy a 56 and bend it 1 degree strong or a 54 bent 1 degree weak. Also what shaft? I have true temper dynamic gold s300 in my irons, 56 degree wedge and my 60 degree wedge. I have a kbs black nickel wedge shaft in my 50 degree? I like both shafts but what is the difference as I cannot detect any due to the different lofts on the clubs. What should I do?
  2. Cameron D

    Cameron D
    Newport, RI

    Bret, 

    Your thought process is correct, but make sure that when you are filling your gaps with your wedges that the yardages are your biggest concern.  It usually a good idea to space out your wedges consistently by loft, but you want to make sure you don't exceed 10-15 yards between clubs.  Meaning the 56* (in between your 50* and 60*) may be just enough to cover your yardage gaps, and give you good play ability out of sand and other turfs, without having to strong loft it (or weak loft a 54*).  When bending strong or weak, keep the bounce in mind as you will manipulate it 1* going either way.  With wedge shafts you can use what feels great, but many players like to keep it consistent with what is in their irons (for swing weight and feel characteristics).

    Cameron

    1-888-TITLEIST 

  3. Lou G

    Lou G
    San Diego, CA

    Bret P said:

    I recently picked up a new 50 degree vokey at golf galaxy. I also have a 60 degree vokey. My problem is I want to replace my non-vokey 56 degree wedge with a vokey but I would like the gaps in my wedges even. Should I buy a 56 and bend it 1 degree strong or a 54 bent 1 degree weak. Also what shaft? I have true temper dynamic gold s300 in my irons, 56 degree wedge and my 60 degree wedge. I have a kbs black nickel wedge shaft in my 50 degree? I like both shafts but what is the difference as I cannot detect any due to the different lofts on the clubs. What should I do?
    Take a 54-11 and bend it to 55-12. Works for me (I've had a bit of a comfort zone with 55-12 wedges for quite a bit of time now). that give 5* between clubs. The Spin-Milled cc 54-11 is a very versatile wedge (in bunkers, around the greens, tight lies) because of its narrow sole. I use it a lot in grassy conditions and have gotten rather proficient at cut shots with it. I have my 50 bent to 51-09. I have this one nailed - besides saving pars, I've had a couple birdies on short par 4s recently (putting 60 yard pitch shots within a foot of the pin). I just about use this club exclusively between 30-80 yards for pitching. The other wedges I carry are a SM cc 58-04 and 62-07. These work pretty well in soft or hard bunkers and I use them mainly within 30 yards of the pin when I have to drop the ball on the spot.
  4. Hammer

    Hammer
    Windsor, CA

    Bret, you definitely want to concern yourself more with yardage, i have a 50, 52, 53, 55, 58, 60, 62, and 64* wedges. Depending on the course i play....wet, dry, and length of course, i will either play 2 scoring wedges or 3, and i am not talking about a standard PW. I spent some time getting exact full swing yardages, which most are just 3-5 yards difference. So when i play 2 wedges, i will use PW(46), my 52/53, and a 60. Or on a short course, i will take out a hybrid, and use PW, 50 or 52, 55 or 58, and 62 or 64, depending on course. But i rarely ever swing 100%, so it is easy to dial in the 3/4 sand or gap wedge to the yardage you want. So...my advice to you, spend an extra 100 bucks, get a 54 and 56, wth 2 different bounces, 8 and 11 or something, and you will have a little more versatility.
  5. Lou G

    Lou G
    San Diego, CA

    My golf bag is simple - 11 clubs. I carry a 13* draw driver (I hit it with a lower trajectory vs a standard neutral 10.5 driver because I tee the ball up about 1 1/2"), 7 wood (I've hit this one over 200 yards on occasion), 5/26 and 7/34 hybrids, 8-9 irons, Vokey wedges (50-08 and 54-11 bent 1* weak, 58-04, and 62-07). I use this on just about any golf course I play in San Diego County and the conditions vary quite widely. Trying to figure out which wedges to use on what courses and what clubs to keep or pull out gets a bit complicated. I don't carry a PW because the loft on my 9 iron is 45* (Eye 2). I shoot close to par on the exec courses and in the mid-80s on the par 72 courses. You can also dial in your distances by choking down. The rule is 10 yards for every 1/2 inch on a full swing, 5 yards for every 1/2 inch on a 1/2 swing and 2.5 yards for every 1/2 inch on a 1/4 swing/chip (tips from Dave Pelz).

  6. Hammer

    Hammer
    Windsor, CA

    Once you know your yardages, its not difficult to remember them and use them accordingly
  7. Lou G

    Lou G
    San Diego, CA

    Sheila said:

    Once you know your yardages, its not difficult to remember them and use them accordingly
    What I did quite some time ago is took all my irons from the 7 down to the 64 wedge and charted all my distances on an Excel spreadsheet with various swing lengths and degrees of choke down (including square stance golf shots and pitch/chip shots). For 50 yards and less, I can pretty much eyeball my shots now. I also have a neighborhood park that I can use to simulate a lot of golf course conditions (such as pitching with a severe ball above the feet lie or from under a tree to an elevated green). The important thing in being a wedge wizard is to get creative in short game practice (just this AM I was doing some under the tree chip shots uphill with a chipping iron since I may re-introduce it back in the golf bag).
  8. Bret P

    Bret P
    Hawthorn woods, IL

    Thank you for all of your answers. Guess I will go to golf galaxy and hit a sm4 in 56 and 54 and see which one I like better. Still deciding on a new fairway wood. RBZ or 910 f.? I like the white finish due to my r11 (sorry, the chicago golf expo got the best of me:) But I would have a better performing product over white paint.

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