It spossible but this will change weighting of the clubthus affecting the flight, spin, etc. You may get the distance you desire but it may come at other costs. Any though of bending it down a degree?

A 5-10 yard gap exists between all my clubs and is pretty standard. Anything more than 10 yards might be an issue. That said, if you find yourself with a lot of full shots with the 48 and it's staying short of target, maybe consider getting the T200 48 degree gap wedge. Its design will likely fly a little further than the 48 degree Vokey and should help you there. It might create a ripple effect in the next club if your sand wedge is a 56. You might need to add a 52 for that gap or change out the 56 to a 54. All this is just my thoughts and everyone is different so your best advice would be get with your teaching pro of local fitter to ensure you get it right. Good luck!

The P is 43 degrees and the SM9 is 48. Wouldn’t you want 10-15 yards between them? It looks you want to narrow the gap even further than 5-10 yards. The expectation is the 48 wedge may have a gap greater than 15 yards. Depending on how you use the 48, you might do better with the T200 48 set iron.

Sometimes less is more. No rule in golf that states you have to play driver-3W-5W, 3H-4H, 5-P, 48-52-56-60. I’ve played some of my best golf with driver-7W-27H, 7-8-9, 48-56-64.

I played on the high school golf team with 3-4 woods, 3-5-7-9 irons and a Haig Ultra Dual Wedge.

The attached photo is what I played Torrey Pines South with in 2018. Score was 95 (I normally score low-mid 80s).

40 years ago I carried a 3-4 woods, 1 iron, 2-PW and a Dual Wedge. This was not fitted. Standard lies. I learned about club fitting in 2008 when I started playing again. I threw my lower back out in 2005 (can attribute that to ill fitting clubs).

I cannot hit a 6 iron. Nor can I hit a 3 wood. When I broke 80 the first time in 2013, carried driver-5W-9W, 27H, 7-P, 54-58-64.

What is in my thumbnail is what I shot 1 stroke over par on an exec course this morning. I’ve been gaming 695MB 6-P since COVID. The last 6 months I played 716CB 7 iron (32*), 716MB 8 iron (39*) and 46-52-58-64 on wedges. I just added a 9 wood (TSR1 23 fairway).

My driver is 44”, 5W 41.5”, 9W 40.5, 25H 38.5”, 27H 38.” Irons standard length and 1.5* upright. 52 thru 64 are 2* upright.

My lofts are 13.5-19.5-24.5-27-33-39-46-52-58-64. This almost mirrors my 2013 setup (had AP1 7-P, SM4 54-11M, 58-06L and 64-07T). 50-58-64 has been a consistent combination probably since 2008. I went to K grind in 2018 bent 2* strong. When the golf courses opened up after the COVID lockdown, found that a 54-10S bent to 52 is more effective vs a 50-08F (I do better out of sand with the S grind). I tried the "traditional" 56-60 route last year (58-14K or 12D bent to 56 and 60-04T); ok, BUT..... 58 stops the ball better than 56 and clears deep bunkers easier plus has more "intestinal fortitude" than a 60 (flies a little further with slightly more roll).

If you add 1/2” to club length you increase swingweight by 3 points. You can bend loft safely 2* either side of standard loft on Vokeys. Lessons learned on an SM6 60-12K that I bent to 57 for Torrey; the hosel broke trying to bend it back to 58*.

My lofts in the bag in the thumbnail are 13.5-20.75-22.5-24.5-28-34-40-46-52-58-64. The reason I have a TSR2 21 sandwiched between the 20 and 23 is for backup and course conditions. I have K and L grinds at 58* loft for high & low bounce.

Update: The 58 loft is 58-06K. My backup clubs are the 60-14K and 60-04L bent to 58*, SM6 K grind bent 2* strong. Returned the TSR2 7 wood and got my TS2 18 fairway back and picked up a T100S 48* wedge.